Hungarian Sausage Ratatouille

Cuuutt! We’re driving on a winding road at night with sharp fearful eyes peeled to avoid tiny black-clad old ladies, dogs, goats, and bicyclists that intermittently appear on our right shoulder. It is later than we had hoped, and, suddenly, a stone structure with an ancient wooden sign appears. We stop involuntarily; it’s some kind of old inn. As we enter, red curtain greets our eyes along with lively voices and a lovely pungent odor of smoke and fruit. I am more than ready for a luscious goulash and red wine, how about you?

This ratatouille is a total bastardization of the concept, so there! It’s made with Italian sausage and smoked Hungarian paprika, along with some sides that would overwhelm a mediocre dish. Ready to explore? Our table’s ready!..

What You’ll Need

Portioned for two people. Or one person on two different days. Or one very hungry person ;^).

Hungarian Sausage Ratatouille

• 2 sausages (I used mild Italian that are made in my neighborhood market)
• 1 medium onion
• 1 stalk celery
• 2 leaves red cabbage
• 1/2 can tomato paste
• 1/4 tsp whole fennel seed
• 1/4 tsp whole cumin
• 1 tsp smoked sweet Hungarian pepper
• 2/3 cup house stock (I used lamb/beef/pork)
• 1 large eggplant, cut in 1” slices
• 2 heaping tbsp chopped garlic
• 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 1/4 tsp basil
• 8 brussels sprouts, halved
• 1/4 tsp rosemary
• 1 heaping tbsp ground parmesan
• Lots and lots of EVOO

How to Make It

1. Broil eggplant slices, dry, until they are just blackening, remove to a cutting board, and allow to cool.
2. Slice the sausages on the diagonal and sauté, dry, on a medium fire, so they brown thoroughly (and brown the pan). I usually freeze mine, and they slice magnificently when frozen. If yours are thawed, cook them whole, then slice and add to the sauce in step5.
3. As the sausage and eggplant cook, chop the onion and celery. Slice the cabbage into thick bite-sized pieces. When the sausage is done, remove to a bowl, and put the onion, celery, cabbage, fennel, and cumin into the sauté pan along with 1-2 tbsp EVOO. Reduce the fire to medium low, and stir frequently, so the vegetables cook while deglazing the pan.
4. Meanwhile, put 4 tsp chopped garlic in the eggplant pan and 2-3 tbsp EVOO on a low fire to mull the garlic. Stir. When it starts browning, kill the fire, add the basil along with 1 tsp salt and the balsamic vinegar, and toss thoroughly. Cut the slices of eggplant into large pieces, and put them in the eggplant pan all together. Toss several times over about 10 minutes, so the pieces soak up the mulled oil and vinegar.
5. In the sauté pan, add the stock to the vegetables when they are slightly browned, and add 1/2 can tomato paste and enough water to make a thin sauce. Whisk together. When it makes a watery sauce, add the remaining 2 tsp garlic and the Hungarian paprika. Stir, and reduce on a low fire.
6. Sauté the halved brussels sprouts, flat side down, in a pan with 2 tbsp EVOO and the rosemary on a low fire until brown, covered. When they are brown, toss and kill the fire. Turn them flat side up, and arrange so they are in the side of the pan opposite the handle. Use a tablespoon to insert into the grated cheese, and sprinkle atop the sprouts. Drizzle EVOO on top.
7. Time to put it together. When you are 15 minutes from serving, fire the sprouts under the broiler for 5-7 minutes to brown the cheese. Then put the sprouts and the eggplant into the oven, reducing the temp to 300°F while the ratatouille achieves the right consistency, temperature.
8. Plate, and enjoy with a dry red wine. A Sicilian rosso was fantastic.

The Wrap

Hungarian Sausage Ratatouille – Close-up

This is one of those paesano sups that feeds one’s ancient earthy soul. There are several layers of smoke, the Hungarian paprika and the slightly scorched eggplant, and they are the groom to the tomato and sweet-dry red wine’s bride. Poetry together. Brussels sprouts are slightly bitter, but the parmesan mellows them while the scorched eggplant, mollified by the balsamic and basil, gently parries the sprouts. These sidekicks open the arena for the ratatouille’s multiple layers of flavor, the sausage sings bass and the fennel flute, while the garlic plays the woodwinds and the tomato violas.

Make sure to pair this with a true nero paesano; I had it with Sette Siciliane Rosso, which had me singing. Buon appetito!